Read these 38 Pets and livestock Tips tips to make your life smarter, better, faster and wiser. Each tip is approved by our Editors and created by expert writers so great we call them Gurus. LifeTips is the place to go when you need to know about Emergency tips and hundreds of other topics.
In most states, trained guide dogs for the blind, hearing impaired, or handicapped will be allowed to stay in emergency shelters with their owners. Check with your local emergency management office for more information as to the rules in your area.
Wild animals will often seek higher ground which, during floods, eventually becomes submerged or surrounded by water creating little islands. The animals become stranded. If the island is large enough and provides suitable shelter, you can leave food appropriate to the species (i.e., sunflower seeds for squirrels, corn for deer) Animals have a fight or flight response and generally the flight response will take precidence. They will naturally flee from people approacing. If the animals threaten to rush into the water, back away from the island or you may frighten the animal into jumping into the water and possibly drowning to escape from you.
If you choose to keep your livestock close to your house and have the corrals and pens to keep them in, give consideration to the following:
Is the pen on high ground? If there is no place for the animals to get out of the water, you will want to construct several large earthen mounds that are compacted enough so as not the wash away.
Is the pen large enough for freedom of movement for the animals? If you have a large number of animals in a pen and they become frightened, they will have a tendency to crowd into corners or at the end on alley ways causing some animals to be trampled or crushed. The pen should be large enough for the animals to mill around. It is better to keep a few animals in several pens and alley ways than the entire herd in one large pen.
The pens should be checked for stability and for objects that may cause injury or death. Fresh water and feed should be available.
Evacuate livestock whenever possible!!! This is an important issue. Remember the powerful Hurricane Andrew that struck Florida. Livestock, household pets, exotic animals in parks and zoos where lost or killed by the thousands due to lack of proper preparation for evacuation. Don't leave your animals alone to fend for themselves if at all possible. But, if you have to, prepare them the best your can.
If you cannot evacuate your animals, precautions should be taken should you wish to pen your animals in a shelter or barn.
Make sure that the structure is a sturdy one and is not sitting in a low area that is prone to flooding.
If you also store farming equipment in the barn, cushion sharp blades, edges or attachments with plastic bags full of straw or rags or other cushioning material that the animals will not eat. (Hay bales are not good for this as the animals will eat it and expose the sharp edges.)
Check the enclosures for objects that would cause cuts. Board up any glass windows that may break. Check all latches or locks. Make sure that the animals will not become trapped in feed bins or fences. Make sure that they will not be trapped by high water or falling items.
Turn off all utilities to the structure. If you must evacuate, make sure that the animals have enough food and fresh water to last for at least three days. But, don't give them so much that they will become ill by gorging. If you are staying, feed them several small rations several times a day. This gives them something to do and alleviates stress and discourges bloat and colic.
You should verify all pet-friendly lodging and facilities and have phone numbers of these and other emergency services and facilities included with fire. police and such.
motels/hotels that allow pets
boarding kennels
veterinary hospitals with boarding kennels
emergency animal shelters, rescue services, evacuation locations
friends and family that will take in your pets in an emergency
foster homes
city hall (will have numbers of emergency evacuation facilities and services for your pets)
FEMA which has a separate section devoted to the care and rescue of animals
your local chapter of Emergency Animal Rescue Services or EARS
If you have had to leave pets behind when you evacuated and the all clear is given, your first priortity when returning home should be to see to the well-being of those pets. If they have survived, they will be in need of your care, love and the security that your presence gives them. They have just weathered a very scary and stressful event and will have some post-traumatic emotional problems just like people do.
If you weathered the disaster together, and you are told to leave your town, take your pets with you. Pets are unlikely to survive on their own.
The evacuation sites should have or be able to readily obtain food, water, veterinary care, handling equipment and safe facilities. These sites should be able to handle large quantities of livestock of all kinds. Be aware of what sites will handle what kind of livestock. Horses may be welcome but the family cow won't, so be sure to have addresses and facilities lined up that will handle your type of livestock.
Birds must eat daily to survive. In an emergency, you may have to leave your bird behind. Talk to your veterinarian or local pet store about special food dispensers that regulate the amount of food a bird is given. Make sure that the bird has a large supply of fresh water. Make sure that the cage is secure and covered by a thin cloth or sheet to provide protection from draughts, security and filtered light.
If you pet is on medication or a special diet, talk with your vet about what you should do if case you have to leave it alone for several days. Try and get an extra supply of medication and have a case of special food on hand at all times just in case of emergencies such as these.
You will need to stock up on food items and store them in sturdy, waterproof containers. The food should be dry and relatively unappealing to prevent overeating. The animal will eat it when hungry. Before evacuating, fill large capacity self-feeders with the food. If using a large container, make sure that it will not tip over and spill the food.
Water can be left in sturdy non-tip buckets, large capacity self-waterers or for large dogs a partially filled bathtub. If possible, open the faucet slightly and alllow the water to drip into a big container set in the bathtub or sink (especially good for cats).
Food should be dry and not moistened to avoid mold or the food from becoming rancid.
Leave a very large and deep kitty litter box for your cat.
Leave familiar items such as the pet's normal bedding and favorite toys. Sometimes an article of clothing with the owners scent on it helps the animal to cope with being left alone.
Replace all choker type or chain link collars with a leather or nylon collar with identification tags or capsule on it.
Separate dogs and cats. Even though your pets are best friends, anxiety caused from the stress of the situation can cause pets to act irrationally.
Keep small pets (hamsters, fish, birds, etc.) away from dogs and cats.
Never leave a pet tied up outside in the storm!
Extra medications
Preparing an emergency kit for a ferret, rabbit or other small animal takes as much planning as planning for the family cat. Ferrets and rabbits use litter boxes and all other animals require, bedding, food, water and comfort items as well.
Make a list of what is used everyday for the up keep and comfort of your pet and triple it. That should be enough for 72-hours. Place all items in a sturdy carry bag and keep with the families emergency kits so it will not be forgotten in the urgency to leave.
As for the cage? I find that all small animals feel more secure in a cat carrier that in an open wire cage. You need to make sure that the carrier is large enough for ease of movement (especially if more than one animal is to be carried in it) and contain a litter box if needed. A cat carrier is stronger, takes more abuse, is easy to clean and is generally enclosed on three sides making the animal feel more secure, especially if a small bed or blanket is included. Food and water dishes easily snap onto the wire grid doors. Don't forget your animals favorite passtimes or toys. Think about the comfort of your pet as these items will go a long way to ease the stress if they have a little bit of home in the eye of the storm.
Post a notice outside in a visible area, advising what pets are in the house and where they are located. Provide a phone number where you or a contact can be reached as well as the name and number of your vet.
Buy a pet carrier that allows your pet to stand up and turn around inside. Train your pet to become comfortable with the carrier. Use a variety of training methods such as feeding it inside the carrier or placing a favorite toy or balnket inside. This is an excellent place for your pet to stay if you have no place to contain it should you have to leave it alone. Just make sure to place the carrier in a safe location out of harms way and above flood waters as your pet is trapped inside and can't get to a higher place.
If evacuation is not possible, a decision must be made whether to move the large animals to available shelter or to turn them outside. This decision should be determined based on the type of disaster and the soundness and location of the shelter (structure).
Arrangements for evacuation, including routes and host sites, should be made in advance. Alternate routes should be mapped out in case the planned route is inaccessible due to flooding or major traffic jams. Have names, addresses and phone numbers of host sites as well as maps showing all routes to get there.
Preparing a 72-hour emergency kit for Rover is not hard, but can save your pet's life and make him more comfortable as well.
If your dog is a large one, you can train him to carry his own pack. These special doggy backpacks can be purchased at many large chain pet stores such as Petsmart. They are made of nylon and are lightweight, but strong.
You will want to pack the following items inside the pack for the care, comfort and feeding of your dog.
Copies of immunization papers, pedigree papers, feeding instructions along with a short physical and personality description (likes,dislikes,temperment), and owners name, address and phone number. I also include the name of our veterinarian in case of injury. It can be used as another source of contact in case of separation.
A ziplock bag with dry food for three days (I use the meals in a pouch which are semi-moist and take up less room.)
Water bottle w/water (You can purchase a doggy water bottle at the same place you purchase the backpack or use one of the cheap water bottles with a squirt cap.)
A favorite toy, rawhide chewy and treats. These provide comfort and diversion.
Collapsible bowls made of nylon used by backpackers and campers for their pets. (May also be purchased at the same place as other items.)
A strong rope for a lead line
A nylon muzzle (in case of injury or if you dog has a tendency to snap or bite when there is a lot of confusion or people milling around.)
If you have more than one dog, you may want to pack everthing in a larger backpack that one of your family members can carry.
Large animals like horses present a whole set of problems of their own. Most of the time, when a disaster happens, livestock or horses, are generally evacuated to special boarding facilities or specially designated areas. You should have the names, phone numbers, and locations of these facilities well ahead of time.
Most of these facilities will provide feed, water and bedding for the evacuated animals but you may wish to bring your own or suppliment with special feeds like grain or treats.
You should have at the ready in a bag or container:
A ziplock or other plastic sealable bag with a copy of brand certificates, registrations papers, current health certificates, immunization papers, owners' contact information (name, address, phone number)
A sturdy halter and lead-line ( I always used a lunge-line which can be used latter to help in exercising the horse. This is a personal preference.)
Shipping boots (which protect legs from injury during trailering)
A blanket
Brush,curry comb, hoof pick (It helps to relax a horse by brushing and grooming him.
A small first-aid kit including any special-needs medications he is taking.
A small container of treats ( help in diverting
attention)
All of the items I have listed should be able to fit into a small plastic trash container with a sealable lid. These are convenient and can be used as feed or water containers. They are sturdy and easy to lift and handle. They keep all items together and will fit in the horse trailer or back of a car or truck with ease. Keep a list of what is inside in a plastic cover and tape to the outside of the container. Replace anything that is used and rotate perishables as needed.
Injured or stranded wildlife can pose real problems that can be life threatening for you and your pets.
If you see an injured or stranded animal in need of assistance, or you need help with evicting an animal from your home, please contact your local animal control office or animal shelter. Do not try to handle the situation yourself.
Never, never leave your pet chained outside! They can strangle or choke to death! They also have very limited movement.
If you leave your pet in an outside kennel, ask yourself these questions:
Is the kennel secure?
Is the run or kennel on high ground in case of flooding?
Does the animal have a sturdy shelter to get out of the elements?
Does the animal have access to fresh food and water?
Do you have a neighborhood plan which states that whoever gets back first, checks all the other neighbors pets? If not be the first to implement one.
Are there objects or edges exposed that can injure your pet or snag a collar and caused strangulation?
Cats and dogs have a tendency to panic and the "fight or flight" instincts take over. They runaway or become lost. That is why good identification is important.
I advise, if at all possible, to have your pet injected with an identification microchip. These are no bigger than a grain of rice and are no harder to inject than the annual rabies shot. On the chip is all the pets information. Pet's owners' names, contact information and medical history are on these chips. They can range in price from vet to vet, but are worth their weight in gold in the peace of mind you will have if your pet should ever become lost.
A good reflective collar with a capsule on it is also recommended. The reflective material will show your pet in the dark when light strikes the collar, helping motorists to see them and searchers to find them. An identification capsule attached to the collar should include your name, contact information and the pet's name.
For health, safety and space reasons, most shelters will not allow pets inside. If you wait until the last minute to evacuate and you must be evacuated by rescuers, be advised that they will not let you take your pets due to space and safety reason.
Also, even the most friendly and calm pet can become agitated and irrational when faced with the anxiety of a stressful situation and become hard to handle. This poses a safety hazard to other evacuees.
If, as a last resort, you have to leave your pets hehind, make sure you have a plan to ensure their comfort, safety and care.
You should have an information stickers on entry doors to your house or apartment to alert fire, police, or rescue workers that there are animals inside. It helps to include the listing of pets' names and favorite hiding places.
The behavior of your pets may change after an emergency. Normally quiet and friendly pets may become aggressive or defensive. Watch pets closely for any abnormal behavior. Leash dogs when outside, or place them in a fenced area or yard with access to shelter and water.
Avoid handling cats as they will have a tendency to bolt at noises and can scratch or bite. A normally gregarious cat may want to hide and will hiss and growl for a while until things get back to normal.
Feeding habits may change and the animal may avoid food for a while. Their systems are responding to stress and anxiety.
Also, don't be surprised or angry if your pets normally fastidious toilet habits slip and they soil the carpet or other things. This is a perfectly natural response to all the upset and stress. They will revert to their normal selves as things quiet down and their lives revert back to a more normal pace.
In the first few days after the disaster, leash your pets when they go outside. Always maintain close contact. Don't let you pets outside alone.
Familiar scents and landmarks may be altered and your pet may become confused and lost.
Snakes and other dangerous animals may be brought into the area due to flooding or fires. Downed power lines are a hazard.
Check with local health services and animal hospitals regarding any diseases spreading as a result of the disaster and find out what their preventative measures will be.
"They are our pets. We domesticate them. We bring them into our lives and make them dependent on us for food, shelter, medical care, and love. In return, they enrich our lives in so many ways. Yet, somehow when disaster strikes, they often fall between the cracks and are forgotten. This is not to say that human life is not more important, yet it seems as though a system ought to exist for them in times of disaster as it does for us. Often left behind in the urgency of the moment, like very small children, they are at a loss to understand just why this is happening to them. Every underpinning of their lives is suddenly gone. The people known to them have disappeared. They are lost, alone, afraid and often left hungry, thirsty and in pain. Some how a system must exist for them as it does for us."
Cathy Rokaw, Cat Fanciers' Almanac, 12/94
Your pets are part of the family and it is important that we plan ahead for our pets' safety as well as we plan for our own. While planning may seen unnecessary now, when disaster strikes all public recources and lines of communication become overburdened. Making provisions now will lessen the confusion and stress when disaster hits, These simple preparations are vital to your animals' safety and your peace of mind.
Due to lack of awareness or planning, many owners leave their animals behind to fend for themselves. It is unlikely those pets will survive on their own.
Your disaster plan should include a list of emergency phone numbers for local agencies that can assist you if disaster strikes--including your veterinarian, state veterinarian, local animal shelter, animal care and control, county extension service, local agricultural schools and the American Red Cross. FEMA is also a good number to have as they have created a separate section for animal care only.
These numbers should be kept with your disaster kit in a secure, but easily accessible place.
For additional information, please contact:
The Humane Society of the Unites States
2100 L. Street NW
Washington, D.C. 20037
ATTN: Disaster Services Program
Phone: (202)452-1100
Whenever possible...Don't leave pets behind to fend for themselves. Most domestic pets will die if left to fend for themselves. The stress of being left alone, without food, water and the comfort of the people they love can takes a great toll in animal lives.
Take the steps outlined in the tips in this category to prepare for the health, safety, comfort and lives of the pets in your life.
The call has come and you have to evacuate. What about your pets? Never if at all possible leave your pets alone to fend for themselves.
When the disaster is imminent, you should immediately contain your pets to keep them from straying or hiding. Close them in the bathroom with food and water to await the call to evacuate. Gather your pets emergency kits and equipment such as carriers, leashes and such.
Make necessary phone calls to alert the boarding kennels, emergency facilities, motels, or friends that are to be caretakers of your pets.
Make sure you have extra provisions, should they be needed, ready to load into your car.
Make sure you have any special medications that your pet requires packed with the emergency kits.
Exchange any choker type collars on your dogs with a good leather or nylon collar with identification tags and capsules.
If you have been given sedatives or tranquilizers for excitable pets, it is a good idea to give them before the acutal evacuation takes place so that they have a chance to calm the animal for transportation.
A 72-hour emergency kit for a bird is very easy to assemble as most birds have all that they require inside their cages.
They will require enough seed, treats and water for three days and a change of paper for the bottom of the cage. This will all fit into a doubled plastic shopping bag and can be kept inside one of the family kits.
One thing to make sure of is that the cover for the cage is water- and weather-proof, blocking out draughts which are a major factor in bird deaths rather than all the confusion and noise that a disaster generates. The cage should be strong and sturdy to withstand a lot of banging and bumping around.
Your kitty needs an emergency kit ,too.
First thing he will need is a good sturdy carrier, large enough to stand up, turn around, lay down and accommodate a small litter box. The door should have a place to hang the snap on water and food dishes.
Enough litter for three days, a pooper-scooper and some plastic sandwich bags with twisters to seal them is a great idea for disposing of the waste from the litter box.
A ziplock or other type of sealable plastic bag containing copies of current health records, vaccinations and a color photo should be included. (Many boarding facilities will not accept animals without proof of current immunizations:)
Enough dry food, canned food and treats for at least three days.
Well-fitting cat-harness and leash
Special-needs medication and supplies
bedding
favorite toys (A catnip sockie would help keep your kitty amused and calm.)
Gifted with heightened senses we don't have, pets can become confused, agitated, and fearful even before a natural disaster strikes. Be alert for your pet acting strangely. Pets will sometimes isolate themselves when they become stressed or afraid. For greater control of your pet, bring them in immediately to keep them from bolting in panic and secure them by leash, carrier or a special room. Never, ever leave a pet outside or tied up during a storm.
Avoid excessive handling if the animal is highly agitated. If the animal is confined to a carrier, it sometimes helps to place the carrier in the room with the family where the pet can see and be with the family but is contained.
Feed should be kept as dry as possible and away from loose animals. Grain should be stored on pallets in plastic, waterproof, sealable containers. Hay should be kept high or in a loft. If hay gets wet, it will mold and become "hot". This can cause colic, bloat and death in many types of livestock. Horses, goats and sheep are very susceptible to these kinds of molds.
When storing your feed, try to think of what would happen to it during a flood or tornado or other disaster and store it accordingly.
Wildlife often seek refuge from floods on upper levels of a home and may remain inside even after the water recedes. if you meet a rat or a snake face to face, be careful to keep your pet out of the room, don't panic and move slowly. Open a window or other escape route and the animal will probably leave on its own. Never attempt to capture a wild animal unless you have training, the proper protective clothing, restraint equipment, and caging necessary to preform the job.
NEVER, never make your dog or cat attack a wild animal. Not only will the animal be open to contracting an illness, but you are exposing them to seriour injury or certain death!
Beware of an increased number of snakes and other predators who will try to feed on the carcasses of reptiles, amphibians and snall mammals who have been drowned or crushed in their burrows or under rocks.
Often during natural disasters, mosquitoes and dead animal carcasses may present disease problems. Outbreaks of anthrax, encephalitis, an other diseases may occur. Contact your local emergency management office and veterinary office for help!
If you cannot shelter your animals or have large herds, it is better to turn them out into large areas. Animals have surprising abilities to survive storms or disasters if they must be turned out. Their natural survival instincts take over. But common sense on the part of their human keeper will see to the survival of these animals better than if they were just let go.
First, check the terrain of the area your animals will be left in. Is there high ground for them to flee to if the area floods? If not, before a disaster happens, using heavy equipment, build several large compact mounds of earth that will not wash away. These mounds will help the animals get out of deep water.
Second, is there a lean-to or shed to get under? If so, re-enforce this shelter by strengthening the poles and roof and making sure that it is sunk securely in the ground so it will not blow over.
Third, check the fences and make sure that they are in good repair. Livestock that survives a storm or disaster, can be lost due to downed fences.
Four, are there large trees that can blow over onto your livestock? If so, weed out the weak trees and re-enforce the strong ones. These will provide shelter from snow, wind and rain. But, on the other hand, they can conduct lightening and cause electrocution.
As soon as the disaster has passed check the livestock immediately to assess their condition and render care as needed.
Decide on a safe location in your house where you could leave your pet in an emergency.
Consider easy to clean areas such as utility areas or bathrooms.
Avoid choosing rooms with hazards such open or low windows, hanging plants or pictures in large frames that can fall.
In case of flooding, the location should have access to high counters that pets can escape to or be on a second floor.
If you have dogs and cats you may want to have two separate locations.
Location should have places for food to keep dry and accessable. Access to fresh drinking water should be made available.
Electrical appliances should be unplugged and put away to keep animal from chewing cords or becoming entangled in the cord.
Basements or cellars are not good locations unless threat of floods are non-existant. Garages should be pet proofed before being used as shelters. Chemicals, sharp objects, electrical outlets should all be considered as threats to your pets health and safety.
Since animals have a tendency to run and hide during times of stress and confusion, it is a good idea to include the following in your pets' emergency kits.
A color photo of each of your animals with full description written on the back alond with name and characteristics.
Also, have your animals fitted with a good collar including ID tags, and or a capsule made specifically for encasing identification information. This should include: owner's name, address and phone numbers. veterinarian, and a neighbor or other contact name and phone number.
Don't wait until the last minute to evacuate your livestock. Once the disaster is imminent, if the only way out is by large animal transport (semi-truck or large vans or even herding) do it now. If you wait until later, the routes may be blocked by obstructions caused by the disaster, or emergency officials may not allow you to take your livestock out. Remember, time is of the essence. And with livestock, it takes a lot of time and planning to evacuate.
Trucks, trailers, and other vehicles suitable for transporting livestock (appropriate for transporting each specific type of animal) should be available along with experienced handlers and drivers to transport them. Whenever possible, the animals should be accustomed to these vehicles in advance so they're less frightened and easier to move.
These transporting vehicles and trailers should be kept maintained and in top condition. All hitches and lights should be in proper working order and tires in good condition.
All livestock should be tagged, branded or marked in some way for easy identification. These kinds of indentifying marks are usually on record with the local brand inspectors office. This way, should they get loose or mixed in with other livestock, you will be able to readily identify your livestock from your neighbors. Horses should be tattooed in the ear or on the lip. Most registered horses or animals have identifying tattoos and these are generally recorded on the registration papers. Copies of these papers should be included with your emergency kits.
Guru Spotlight |
Lynne Christen |